"My wife and I spent two nights at Palazzo Salgar in early October as part of a round trip through Southern Italy.
We arrived by bus from Matera/Bari and stepped out into the hustle and bustle of Naples' central railway station late one afternoon. What a contrast to Matera, Alberobello and Bari, where we had just been! The area was dirty, noisy and chaotic, with traffic coming from every direction. We had barely stepped off the bus before witnessing our first drug addict smoking what appeared to be opium.
The walk from the station to the hotel was rather unsettling, to say the least. Rubbish everywhere, and people sleeping in boxes along the boulevard. We had read about these conditions beforehand, but we hadn't expected them to be quite so widespread.
We arrived at the hotel on foot, and the moment we stepped through the entrance, the outside world seemed to disappear. Suddenly, there was peace and quiet.
We received a warm welcome at reception and were shown to our Double Junior Suite on the second-highest floor. The suite was extremely spacious, with a separate bedroom, a living area connected by a hallway, and a lovely bathroom. It actually exceeded our expectations.
The suite also came with an enormous terrace, complete with a couple of sun loungers. From here, we enjoyed views across the harbour, with its many passenger ferries and cruise ships.
As mentioned, the suite was very nice, and the housekeeping was equally good. There was also a fully stocked minibar – something you don't come across that often these days – and the prices were surprisingly reasonable. In fact, beer, snacks and wine were downright cheap!
We decided to have dinner at the hotel's restaurant on our first evening, as we had spent five hours on a bus and arrived in Naples late, following a delay.
We ordered a starter and a main course. The starter, a pasta dish, was perfectly fine. Then again, we were pretty hungry!
My main course, a fish dish, was actually quite good. My wife's meal, however, was a different story. It consisted of a chicken breast that had been flattened almost beyond recognition. It was poorly prepared, with no side dishes or accompaniments whatsoever. A rather dull and dry experience.
We had breakfast at the hotel on both mornings, and unfortunately, it was fairly average.
First of all, there were a lot of guests, and the staff struggled to keep up. Secondly, the breakfast buffet – which was actually quite extensive, particularly when it came to cakes and pastries – was not replenished regularly enough.
At one point, the coffee machine broke down. Then there was no juice. Then the bread ran out. All in all, it was a rather hectic affair.
An important tip: When staying at this hotel, order your coffee directly from the bar! That way, you get exactly the coffee you want, and it is genuinely excellent. They use illy coffee beans.
Speaking of coffee, there is one thing the hotel's bar does exceptionally well: Espresso Martinis!
I can honestly say that I have rarely tasted a better one. The balance of flavours and the texture were absolutely spot on.
Look out for the bartender with the little goatee and neatly groomed moustache. He certainly knows how to make an excellent Espresso Martini!
Checking out was quick and painless, despite quite a bit of noise from other guests in the lobby.
We ordered a taxi, even though the railway station is less than two kilometres away. The fare was €15.
As mentioned earlier, Naples is an incredibly hectic city. On the other hand, that is also part of its charm.
There is always something happening in Naples – crowds of people, scooters everywhere, and a lively atmosphere with shops and businesses buzzing with activity.
Wandering through the narrow little streets, where you occasionally have to jump out of the way to avoid being hit by a honking scooter, is actually a wonderfully rewarding experience.
Naples certainly isn't a quiet or polished city, but it is full of life and character. And Palazzo Salgar provided a welcome retreat from all the chaos outside."
