Bougatsa in Central Macedonia
A Greek breakfast pastry with sweet or savoury filling, bougatsa is prepared using gossamer-thin phyllo dough, blasted in a hot oven and sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon (if the filling is sweet). Synonymous with Central Macedonia, where it was brought by Greek refugees from Constantinople during the 20th century, bougatsa can be found in countless places in areas such as Thessaloniki and Serres.
Throughout the region tastes do intentionally differ, but the most important aspect is ensuring the phyllo is handmade on-site. Handmade bougatsa is, sadly, a dying art, and the machine-made versions are supremely inferior. Look hard enough and you’ll find the good stuff, but also remember bougatsa is typically a breakfast food when considering timings. After lunch, the bougatsa won’t necessarily be fresh or made by experts. Semonlina custard is a must-try filling, as is savoury cheese sprinkled with just a whisper of icing sugar.
Where to eat it:
Chatzis, Thessaloniki
For over 100 years, Chatzis has been operating in Thessaloniki, with two stores now open in the area, plus two in Athens. The pastry shop serves perfect hand-made bougatsa with semolina custard, plus melted mizithra cheese in lieu of custard.
ΘΕΜΙΣΤΟΚΛΗ ΣΟΦΟΥΛΗ 73, Argonafton 2, Kalamaria 551 31
en.chatzis.gr
Paradosiako, Thessaloniki
Traditional recipes and high-quality ingredients are utilised at Paradosiako, serving a range of sweet and savoury bougatsa, including substantial pastries filled with minced meat.
Tsimiski 28, Thessaloniki 546 24
paradosiako.net
Pastitsada in Corfu
Taking its name from the Venetian pastizzada (literally meaning ‘something messed up’) used for a variety of Italian braised meat dishes, pastitsada is generally associated with the island of Corfu, where it’s a popular Sunday dinner. Traditionally featuring either beef or rooster, pastitsada sees the meat slowly braised in a lightly spiced tomato sauce rife with cinnamon, which lends a gorgeous warmth to the dish and works surprisingly well with the tomatoes. The traditional tavern staple is commonly topped with grated kefalotyri or parmesan cheese and served over pastitsio pasta (bucatini), but other pasta shapes are also used throughout the island. Mashed potato is also popular as an accompaniment to pastitsada in place of pasta.
Where to eat it:
The Venetian Well, Kerkira
An elegant restaurant with a fine dining edge, The Venetian Well impresses with its Corfian dishes such as pastitsada comprising ravioli with cockerel, graviera cheese cream, wild artichoke crisps and hazelnut.
Sofokleous Dousmani 46, Kerkira 491 00
venetianwell.gr
Taverna Elisabeth, Doukades
In the small village of Doukades, this rustic taverna specialises in Corfiot comfort food, including superlative pastitsada, best enjoyed on one of the outside tables on the village square.
Doukades 490 83
facebook.com/tavernaelisabeth
Dakos in Crete
Also known as ntakos, Dakos is a traditional Cretan dish typically served as a meze dish or light dinner. For the base of the dish, a dry barley rusk cracker (paximadi) is used, often rubbed with a clove of garlic. The rusk cracker is then crowned with chopped ripe tomatoes, locally-grown olives, capers, oregano, a drizzle of high-quality olive oil – for which Greece is renowned – and mizithra cheese: a whey cheese primarily produced on the island of Crete, using sheep or goat’s cheese, or a mixture of both. Steer clear of restaurants obviously using feta in place of mizithra, as these will almost definitely predominantly cater to tourists.
Where to eat it:
Chrisostomos, Chania
Chrisostomos has a particular focus on Sfakia-style mountain cooking, where slow-cooked dishes are prepared in a wood-fire oven. The dakos is also excellent, as are the pumpkin and cheese-filled boureki.
Δευκαλίωνος, Ikarou και, Chania 731 32
chrisostomos.gr
George’s Yard, Matala
Generally considered the best taverna in Matala, George’s Yard is run by a Greek-German couple specialising in gently modernised Cretan cuisine built around well-sourced ingredients.
D.fastou, Matala 702 00
facebook.com/Georges-yard
Soutzoukakia in Eastern Macedonia
Believed to have been brought to Greece by refugees from Asia Minor, soutzoukakia is a spicy meatball dish with supposed Greek and Turkish origins. Literally meaning “spicy little sausages” in Greek, soutzoukakia generally comprises minced beef mixed with lamb or pork, bread crumbs, egg, garlic, parsley, cumin, cinnamon and garlic. Fried in olive oil, the meatballs are typically served with tomato sauce, pilaf or mashed potato. A very similar version of the dish is also common in Turkey, known as Izmir köfte, although pork mince doesn’t feature in the recipe.
Where to eat it:
To Koutí, Komotini
This Komotini restaurant serves a broad menu of Greek classics, including portions of generously-seasoned soutzoukakia with a choice of side.
Orfeos 45, Komotini 691 00
Alevropita in Epirus
The region of Epirus is well-known for its filo pies, arguably the most famous and simplest of which is the alevropita. Consisting of a thin batter sprinkled with feta cheese, the dish is believed to have originated in the village of Monodendri when hunters from Netherlands requested food at a café while passing through. The café didn’t serve food, but it’s believed that the proprietor offered to make a quick pie using ingredients to hand. The alevropita became an instant success, with the hunters returning each year to sample more, and the recipe has since become popular throughout the region. The crispy feta pie is usually prepared with wheat flour, milk (or yoghurt) and eggs, baked in large round or rectangular pans, and then drizzled with olive oil just before serving.
Where to eat it:
Pita tis Kikitsas, Mondodendri
Believed to be the home of the alevropita, invented during the 1960s, the dish is a must-try at Pita tis Kikitsas. Additionally, spit-roasted lamb, pork and hogget are another speciality of the restaurant which now has a broader food selection, all well worth trying.
Monodendri 440 07
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Savoro in Ithaca
Home to the mythological hero Odysseus, Ithaca is renowned for its cuisine which makes the best use of local products and is largely influenced by the Venetians who left a huge imprint on the seven Ionian islands. Retaining its Italian name to this day, savoro is a sweet and sour fish dish synonymous with the island, with similarities to Venetian ‘pesse in saor’. Savoro typically uses small fish with the head intact. Once dredged in flour and lightly fried, the fish is then paired with a sauce typically using raisins or dried berries, rosemary and a generous splash of vinegar: a method formerly used to preserve food before the invention of refrigerators.
Where to eat it:
Kanenas, Stavros
Considered one of Ithaca’s best tavernas, Kanenas in Stavros serves an exemplary savoro dish using sea bream as its centrepiece.
Σταυρός 283 00
kanenasithaki.com
Riganada in Kefalonia
The largest of the Ionian islands, Kefalonia is synonymous with dishes such as Kefalonian meat pie, chicken tserepa (although it’s thought to originate in Ithaca) and riganada, which is generally associated with both Kefalonia and Lefkada. Derived from the term ‘rigani’, which means ‘oregano’ in Greek, riganada isn’t too dissimilar to Italian bruschetta, which is hardly surprising considering the Ionian islands’ Venetian influence, but is distinctively Greek. Lightly soaked bread or Greek rusks are drizzled with olive oil and vinegar and then topped with heaps of oregano, diced tomato, basil, feta and olives. Myzithra shavings are also commonly added, while anchovies, sardines and cheese are a popular accompaniment to the Kefalonian summer staple.
Where to eat it:
Hotel Paspalis Restaurant, Skala
Look beyond the no-thrills presentation at this traditional tavern, which serves gorgeous, comforting Greek classics. The riganada is based with crusty bread, loaded with tomatoes, oregano, olives and feta.
Skala 280 86
paspalishotel.com
Pligouri in Kos
Making wheat into bulgur has been a popular process for thousands of years, with biblical references suggesting it was prepared by ancient Babylonians, Hittites and Hebrew populations over 4,000 years ago, while Arab, Egyptian, Greek and Roman civilisations are believed to have eaten bulgur as early as 1,000 BC. Although bulgur (as it is best known in the UK) is a Turkish word, it was popular throughout the Ottoman Empire, with variants of the name found in differing regions. In Greece, pligouri is a common name for the ingredient, commonly used to make a simple pilaf, ideal as a vegetarian dish or to be mixed with meat. On the island of Kos, pligouri remains particularly popular, often served alongside pork.
Where to eat it:
Avli, Kardamena
A family-run taverna, Avli has been operating for 120 years, serving elevated classic Greek food. Alongside the pligouri with local pork, clay-pot dishes are a particular speciality of the restaurant.
Central square, Kardamena 853 02
avlirestaurant.gr
Oromedon, Lagoudi Zia
This hilltop taverna boasts excellent views and classic Greek dishes, including pilourgi with roast pork. Ideally, time your visit to coincide with the sunset.
Epar.Od. Zipariou-Asfendiou, Lagoudi Zia 853 00
oromedon.com
Ladenia in Milos
Another Italian-inspired dish left behind by the Venetians, ladenia is a culinary staple on the island of Milos. A type of soft flatbread, not unlike ciabatta, ladenia is considered to be the Greek take on pizza – drawing plenty of similarities. The flatbread is crowned with tomato paste or fresh tomato slices, onions and oregano before being baked and drizzled with a generous splash of Greek olive oil. Some recipes also call for capers and peppers as a topping, but as is the case with pizza, less is more. Unlike pizza, however, ladenia is a particularly popular breakfast option on Milos, but it’s also eaten as a light lunch and offered as a meze dish in some restaurants.
Where to eat it:
Palaios Café, Plaka
In whitewashed Plaka, Palaios Café serves some of the best ladenia from its terrace overlooking the island’s unique moonscapes. The spiced watermelon pie is also worth sampling.
Plaka 848 00
Kalathaki in Mykonos
Given the Aegean islands’ dry climate, locals were once forced to use basic, everyday ingredients for desserts. As such, marzipan is hugely popular in Mykonian cuisine, with almonds, butter and eggs easy enough to obtain. One of two popular almond-based desserts, kalathaki are a take on classic amigthalota, an almond cake baked in a small cupcake mould, often individually wrapped. Although the cakes feature just a short list of ingredients, they’re rich and aromatic, synonymous with festive celebrations (so much so that they’re widely known as ‘Sunday sweets’). Regardless of their festive connections, kalathaki are available all year as a staple of Mykonian bakeries and pastry shops.
Where to eat it:
Gioras Wood Bakery, Mykonos
The oldest working bakery on Mykonos and the oldest wood-fired bakery in the Cyclades, this family-run spot dates back to the 18th century. Freshly baked goods include myriad breads, pies, pastries and desserts.
Agiou Efthimiou, Mikonos 846 00
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Gournopoula in The Peloponnese
The region with the greatest number of protected designation of origin products in Greece, the Peloponnese is world famous for the production of kalamata olives. Never absent from the Peloponnesian table, kalamata olives are also prized for oil, which is commonly used in Greece for frying, preserving, drizzling and dipping. As for the local cuisine, it’s largely earthy and quite simple, featuring specialities such as gournopoula. A traditional Greek dish originating from Messinia in the southwestern part of the Peloponnese region, gournopoula consists of suckling pig slowly roasted on a spit, stuffed with a mixture of salt and oregano which permeates the delicate, slightly sweet meat armoured with brittle skin.
Where to eat it:
Kotsiopoulos Bros Butchery (Lambitsas), Tripolis
Grounopoula is extremely hard to find in Peloponnese restaurants, but this butcher is especially famous for its version of the roast pork dish.
2 Pelopida St., Ano Agora, Tripolis
Pitaroudia in Rhodes
One of Greece’s most popular islands amongst tourists, Rhodes is home to a wealth of delicious meat and seafood dishes. One dish which abstains from both, however, is pitaroudia – a truly Rhodian dish of chickpea fritters. Often described as being similar to falafel, pitaroudia has a completely different flavour profile, loaded with tomatoes, plenty of onion, mint, cumin and other seasonings alongside the nutty chickpeas, pressed into patties and plunged into seething hot olive oil until crisp. Once cooked and drained slightly, the pitaroudia are customarily served with tzatziki for dipping.
Where to eat it:
Avantis, Afantou
A classic beach-side taverna that’s been operating for almost 40 years, Avantis specialises in grilled fish and seafood, yet the pitaroudia never feels like an afterthought.
Afantou 851 03
avantisfishrestaurant.gr
Taverna Artemida, Psinthos
This family-run Greek taverna serves a wide collection of traditional Greek classics, including local pitaroudia, roasted suckling pig and various slow-cooked goat dishes.
800 Meters from Main Square of Psinthos to Archipolis, Psinthos 851 05
tavernartemida.gr
Tomatokeftedes in Santorini
Thanks to the bright sunny days, lack of rainfall and volcanic soil rich with minerals and nutrients, Santorini’s tomato production is second-to-none. These prized local tomatoes are ubiquitous in Santorini, featuring heavily in dishes such as tomatokeftedes. Also known as ‘domatokeftedes’, tomatokeftedes are a Santorini specialty, also popular throughout the Cyclades.
Santorini-grown tomatoes are peeled, seeded and finely chopped before being mixed with diced onion, assorted herbs and occasionally feta cheese and grated courgette. The mixture is then combined with flour to produce a batter, with the tomato fritters fried in good-quality local olive oil. Tomatokeftedes are generally served as part of a meze, but are simply delicious on their own at any time of day.
Where to eat it:
Aktaion, Firostefani
Celebrating its 100th birthday this year, this old-school taverna champions Greek classics, including Santorini specials such as tomatokeftedes: octopus with fava and skordomakarona.
Firostefani, Santorini 847 00
aktaionsantorini.com
Ariale, Kamari
At this beachside restaurant, classics such as light tomatokeftedes are a must-try. But also keep an eye on the regularly-changing specials board for fresh fish and seafood highlights.
Kamari Beach Santorini Kamari village, Santorini 847 00
instagram.com/ariale.restaurant
Spetsofai in Thessaly
Originating from Pelion, a mountain in the southeastern part of Thessaly, spetsofai is a rustic dish comprising loukaniko sausages. The spicy sausages are typically sliced and cooked in a rich tomato sauce with sliced bell peppers. Hotter chilli peppers are also commonly used, while some recipes also call for aubergine to be incorporated. A tavern staple throughout the region, spetsofai is popular as a main course or meze dish, delicious with kefalotyri cheese and plenty of bread to mop up the sauce.
Where to eat it:
Meintani (Niki’s Taverna), Northeast Pelion
A roadside taverna with stunning long-range views and an extensive menu of classic Greek dishes, Taverna Niki’s spetsofai comprises sausages, peppers and fresh tomato.
Zagora 370 01
meintani.gr
Krista Gastronomy Hotel, Northwest Pelion
Dubbed a ‘gastronomy hotel’, the venue’s excellent restaurant serves a broad selection of traditional Pelion dishes, including exemplary spetsofai, fried greens with eggs, Trahanas soup and lamb in tomato sauce.
Central Square, Portaria Pelion, 370 11
hotel-kritsa.gr
Kichí in Western Macedonia
Contemporary Greek Macedonian cooking shares plenty of aspects with wider Balkan and Mediterranean cuisine, specifically influenced by the Anatolian Greek, Aromanian and Megleno-Romanian, Slavic, Armenian and Sharphardi Jewish populations. Popular dishes include the likes of buffalo from around Lake Kerkini, tyrokafteri (a spicy cheese spread) and phyllo-based pies such as kichí.
Generally associated with Kozani, the capital city of Western Macedonia, kichí shares similarities to other Greek phyllo pies, but is notable for its coiled, snail-like shape. Kichí traditionally comprises a filling of feta cheese (ideally mature feta for optimum saltiness), eggs and various spices. Some recipes call for mint, while few use spinach. The filling is wrapped in phyllo and then baked until golden brown and crisp.
Where to eat it:
Korkas Bakery, Kozani
With a family history of baking spanning over 100 years, Korkas Bakery now has multiple stores. Alongside various breads and sweet treats, the bakery serves a range of phyllo pies, including kichí and additional fillings such as sausage, leek and spinach.
Monastiriou 72, Kozani 501 00
fournoikorkas.gr
Frigania in Zakynthos
Zakynthian cuisine tends to focus on high-quality, homegrown ingredients, with traditional recipes and techniques cherished by home cooks and restaurant chefs. Outstanding local produce such as honey, olive oil, cheese and yoghurt are utilised throughout a repertoire of quintessential Greek dishes as well as Zakynthos specialties. A traditional Zakynthian dessert, frigania typically consists of three layers, with many varying recipes followed throughout the island. The dessert’s base is commonly prepared with traditional Greek rusks doused in sugar syrup spiced with lemon and cinnamon, topped with vanilla-infused cream, then a layer of whipped cream. Served cold from the fridge, frigania is an eminently refreshing dessert, typically garnished with almonds, ground walnuts or a pinch of cinnamon.
Where to eat it:
Votsalo Taverna, Marathias
With stunning views over the Mediterranean, this tavern specialises in Greek barbecue dishes, yet Zante’s speciality dessert is also showcased, comprising a base of rusks soaked in cinnamon syrup, cream and sour cherry syrup.
Μαραθίας 290 92
votsalotaverna.gr
Lino Bistro, Alykes
This elegant hotel restaurant is renowned for serving some of the best frigania on the island of Zakynthos, and for good reason.
Katastari 290 90
hotel-koukounaria.com
