Its atmospheric old bazaar area has a tight-knit set of alleys with a number of fine buildings that have survived from the Ottoman period, including a selection of excellent ouzeris (taverns). Although there are several small museums in town, the main attraction for history buffs is outside: just 8km north is Nikopolis (or ‘Victory City’, as the name translates), which was created under the order of Roman Emperor Octavian (later Emperor Augustus) to commemorate his win over Anthony and Cleopatra’s fleet at nearby Actium in 31BC.
Best of all, less than 20km south lies the region’s undisputed gem, the beautiful Ionian island of Lefkada, which is actually connected to the mainland by a causeway and pontoon bridge. Not overtly touristic except for the resorts of Nydri and Vassiliki, Lefkada is a laid back capital with several important churches, a rugged mountainous interior and a spectacular west coast. Its beaches, sandwiched between dramatic cliffs and the sea, a dazzling palette of milky turquoise blending into deep azure, rival any in Greece.
If you are looking for an authentic souvenir, Karsana (tel: 26450 41280), in the delightful mountain village of Karya, is one of several places that sell intricately embroidered traditional clothes and fabrics.
A lovely way to spend a warm spring evening from May onwards is by catching a film at Lefkada Town's outdoor cinema, Eleni (51 Faneromenis, tel: 26450 24550). It shows mostly English-language films, always in the original with Greek subtitles.
It is worth taking a tour of Lefkada Town's beautiful old churches, such as Agios Dimities, Agios Minas or Pandokrator, which are clustered on or around the main street. The interiors contains works by painters from the Ionian School.
A good day trip from Preveza is north up[ the coast to the lively resort of Parga, which has a couple of fine beaches, boat tours and a variety of places to eat and shop.
You're flying from
You know when you want to travel