Every Tuesday and Saturday the Feira da Ladra flea market takes place in Campo da Santa Clara (tram 28: get off at São Vicente de Fora church). It goes on all day but the best bargains are to be had early! Rummage antiques, junk, books and clothes.

El Corte Inglês The only real department store in Lisbon, El Corte Inglês has its sales in January and you could get lucky and pick up a designer item or two at a bargain price (31 Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar, tel: 213 711 700).

For last-minute Christmas presents with a Portuguese flavour you can't go better than A Vida Portuguesa with its wonderful array of traditional crafts and products (11 Rua Anchieta, Chiado, tel: 21 346 5073).

Lisbon's never been a great place for vintage shops but that's starting to change. One of the best is A Outra Face de Lua, which, besides its enticing selection of clothes and artefacts, has a welcoming bar and terrace (22 Rua da Assunção; tel. 21 886 3430).