Porta Portese is the largest flea market in Rome. Enter at Piazza Porta Portese for clothing, shoes and houseware. Enter from Piazza Ippolito Nievo if you're after antique furniture, lamps, rugs, curiosities and embroideries. In the Trastevere district, it is open every Sunday from dawn to 2pm.

Feltrinelli bookshop in Largo Argentina also has a pleasant and inexpensive café upstairs, whose vast plate-glass windows let you look down over the piazza (11 Largo Torre Argentina, tel: 06 6866 3001).

Domus (52 Via Belsiana, tel: 06 678 3122) Step off the nearby Via del Corso for high-quality ladies' shoes, leather bags and accessories.

Cutting-edge fashion shop and magnet for the rich and chic, L'una e L'Altra stocks clothes by Dries van Noten, Issye Miyake, Martin Margiela, and Italian designers Zucca and Faliero Sarli (105 Via del Governo Vecchio, tel: 06 6880 4995).