Hrelić, the city's largest flea market, is worth visiting for the insight into local life it offers even if you don't buy anything. Sunday mornings only (8 Sajmišna Cesta).

Dolac - The city's main market is a colourful wonderland of fresh produce with fruit, vegetables and stunning homemade cheese. In a nod to the times they even stock souvenirs these days.

Croatia is very proud of having invented the neck tie (the French word for tie, "cravate", derives from the word "Croat"), and this shop sells ties in every possible colour and style (Croata, 13 Kaptol; tel. 01 481 4600).

Slavonica - If you don't have time to get out to Slavonia, come here to enjoy its culinary delights, such as spicy kulen sausage, and some great wines too (11 Kaptol, tel: 01 4832 329).